County Donegal is a county of Ireland, in the province of Ulster.
Located in the northwest corner of Ireland, Donegal is the island’s northernmost county. In terms of size and area, it is the largest county in Ulster and the fourth-largest county in all of Ireland.
In this blog, I would like to share my experience around a two days trip that we did in July 2024 to County Donegal.
The Wild Atlantic Way is a breathtaking coastal route over 2,500 kms from Donegal to Cork, showcasing some of Ireland’s most stunning scenery. There are around 39 discovery stops in county Donegal.
Day 1:
We started our journey from Saggart around 9AM (1st day google map route is shown below)
NOTES:
- In this road trip, you will be passing through some of the roads in the Northern Ireland. As the region is under UK, the speed limits will be marked in Miles.
- It will be always beneficial to carry some snacks or light food with you, as you might not see a lot of food points of your interest in this road trip. Also, the number of towns (small/big) are relatively lesser.
The following places were covered on Day 1.
1. Portsalon Beach and Ballymastocker Strand Viewpoint:
This is a very extensive sandy beach (approximately 1 Km long) located on the western side of Lough Swilly between Rathmullan and Fanad Head and has fabulous views towards the Inishowen Peninsula. Portsalon Beach is also known as Ballymastocker Bay.
This is a Blue flag beach. It’s an exceptionally clean beach and you can swim in these waters. Lifeguards are available during summertime (June-September). There is a limited parking available near the beach. The car park can get crowded here during the warmer summer months, so make sure to arrive earlier to secure a spot. Toilet facility is available, but seems like it’s an old building and not well maintained (not to Irish standards atleast).
There is also a small mobile coffee shop near the parking, in case if you wish to take some hot drinks, light snacks and so on.
American pop singer Taylor Swift had visited this beach in summer 2021. Her Instagram post from the beach made this beach even more popular among the tourists. You can also drive upto the hill to reach the Ballymastocker Strand Viewpoint.
NOTE: We didn’t go until the Ballymastocker Strand Viewpoint, as we were slightly behind our planned schedule.
2.Fanad Head light house:
Fanad Lighthouse is an iconic working lighthouse at the mouth of Lough Swilly. It was voted as one of the most beautiful lighthouses in the world. Fanad Head Lighthouse is one of 70 lighthouses operated by the commissioners of Irish lights around the coast of Ireland and plays a vital role in maritime safety.
Accommodation at Fanad Lighthouse is available all year round in three charming former lighthouse keeper’s homes, all with stunning sea views. House 1 can sleep 2 people, House 2 can sleep 2-4 people and House 3 can sleep 2 people.
There are guided tours available. This tour will help you to learn lives of the lighthouse keepers and their families who were stationed there. You can also climb to the top of the tower for spectacular 360 views of North Donegal, the Atlantic and Lough Swilly. Please note that there are around 76 steps to reach to the top. My parents were with me in this trip. As it was difficult for them to climb that many steps, we had to skip the guided tour.
There is a dedicated parking facility available near the light house. A proper coffee cum souvenir shop is available near the parking bay. A very clean toilet facility is also available near the coffee shop. You will have to take the guided tour ticket from the coffee shop and then proceed towards the main gate to enter into the lighthouse premise. Please note that there is a very small parking facility (may be 4-5 cars) near the main gate aswell (Even if you park your car here, you will have to still get the tickets from the coffee shop mentioned earlier).
More details here : https://fanadlighthouse.com/
3.Boyeeghter Bay, aka Murder Hole Beach, aka Sheephaven Bay:
Please note that google map will take you till the car parking. It’s a flat 5 Euros (only cards) parking charge. I understand that there are 2 options to reach the beach.
A) You will have to take a trail (near to the car park) to reach the beach. I have read a lot of negative reviews (mainly in trip advisor) about the trail and the landowner who owns the property. I have not experienced it personally, so would be difficult to further comment on the same. Also, please note that the trail might test your fitness levels and it’s not ideal for people with walking difficulties or people who have buggies. There are restrictions for dogs aswell, since you need to pass through a working farm.
B) Another option to park your car in the parking area and walk backwards to the same direction from where you came in. There are clear sign boards showing the beach entrance.
I think there are more routes to the beach nearer to the car parking area, but seems like they are restricted, and access is only for the caravan homeowners who owns a holiday home in that site (Melmore Holiday Park).
I have read that one of the highlights of the beach is the quiet deep cave known as Murder Hole, which offers a fantastic view of the water. Visitors can find the cave by walking along the cliffs at the back of the beach.
The route to reach this place itself is very scenic. I would suggest to skip going to this beach if you are not particular about doing so. Instead, you can go until the car parking area to experience the scenic route and further take a U turn and return back (5 Euros saved😊)
4.Killahoey Beach:
In the county that boasts the highest number of Blue Flag beaches and the longest coastline in the country; you are never too far from a beach. Killahoey Beach (Tra na Cille), also known as Dunfanaghy Beach, is located close to the town of Dunfanaghy (Dun Fionnachaidh) on the northern coast of County Donegal. It is a sandy beach just over 1km long. There is a large car park with portable toilet facility aswell.
When you enter to the beach road from the main road, you will soon find a car parking, its for the people who visit the golf club nearby. You can further drive to find the actual car park for the beach visitors.
Beach Lifeguards will be on duty on this beach – from June until September. The beach has spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding mountainous countryside.
5.Dunfanaghy Town:
Dunfanaghy is a small town, former fishing port, and commercial centre on the north coast of County Donegal, Ireland. We spend some time at this beautiful small town. The main intention was to take a parcel for our dinner.
We had taken food from ‘Megabites Chipper’ (a small mobile shop operating during evenings). The chicken burger and chicken wings (dips) were very tasty.
6.Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point @Magherroarty Pier, Magheraroarty:
Magherroarty Pier is a great hub for both locals and tourists. The pier is the departure point for ferries to Tory Island and Inishbofin Island (a remote and rugged island off the coast of Donegal). In case if you plan for a ferry to Tory island, check with the staff as sailings are subject to tidal conditions, and cancellations are very common. There is also a long stretch of beach (Magheraroarty beach) near to the pier.
The pier is relatively small. It has a parking facility, toilet facility and a bar/restaurant. The journey time to and from Tory Island is approximately 45 minutes. It’s a passenger only ferry (no vehicles).
More details around Tory ferry here: https://www.toryferry.com/
The journey time to and from Inishbofin Islands is approximately 10 minutes.
7.Stay at Machaire Rabhartaigh Glamping:
We reached our destination (glamping site) around 7 PM.
There are around 10 pods here. Pods No. 1-6 and No. 10 are more family friendly and have bunkbeds in them. Pods No. 7,8 & 9 are more for couples or singles. The road towards the glamping site was not completed yet but you can easily drive through the gravel route. We had stayed in Pod 1. The view from the Pod was beyond words. You can experience beautiful views of the Seven Sisters Mountain Range, Magheraroarty Beach, Inis Bó Finne, Tory Island and even Horn Head in the distance.
Definitely, this is one of the best glamping sites that I have ever visited. Highly recommend without a second thought. Owner (Edward) was very kind. He visited each pods in the evening, to meet the guests in person. He also shared few useful tips about that region.
For booking, you can check this website : https://www.mrglamping.ie/.
NOTE: Please note that towels are not provided in the pods. You will have to bring one.
Day 2:
The following places were covered on Day 2 (2nd day google map route is shown below)
We started our journey around 8AM, as we had to cover a lot of places on day 2.
1.Errigal Mountains:
Standing at 751 meters high, Errigal is the tallest in the county and is one of the Seven Sisters. Errigal is now of huge importance to hikers and walkers. There is a slight deviation from the main road to reach the base of Errigal mountains. As my parents were not interested in hiking, we just took snaps of the mountain from the main road and skipped the hiking part.
NOTE: If you want to complete the trip as per the itinerary mentioned here, you will also have to skip the hiking part. Generally, this hiking route is considered as a challenging one and might take around 2-3 hours (around 4.5 kms I presume) to complete.
2.Carrickfinn Beach (and Donegal airport enroute):
Carrickfinn Beach is situated in the beautiful Gweedore Bay right behind Donegal Airport, which has been voted as the most scenic landing strip in the world in 2020 (https://edition.cnn.com/travel/article/scenic-airport-landings-2020/index.html).
The beach is a long stretch of white sand beach backed by sand dunes. The beach currently has Blue Flag status. It is also known as Dunmore Strand. Beach Lifeguards will be on duty on this beach – from June until September.
Aer Lingus operates direct flight in Dublin – Donegal route (around 50 minutes).
3.Col Glengesh, Leamagowra / Glengesh pass:
Glengesh Pass is a fabulous mountain pass in County Donegal, near the Irish town of Ardara.
The road is a succession of twists and turns. For sure, this will be the most scenic stretch in this 2 days trip. So, try not to skip this route even if you are slightly behind the schedule. Once you’ve reached the highest point, you can park your car and take some beautiful snaps.
Often referred to as the ‘Donegal Pass’, the road at Glengesh snakes through the valley and provides a very unique experience, regardless of whether you’re driving or on foot.
NOTE: In this itinerary, you will be climbing up the mountain. So be extremely cautious when taking the bends as they’re extremely tight, so take your time and drive safely. The total stretch is around 15 kms.
4.Glencolumbkille Folk Village:
The Glencolmcille Folk Village Museum, in Glencolmcille County Donegal, is a cluster of seven small cottages, called a “clachán,” perched on a hillside overlooking a sandy curve of nearby Glenbay beach.
This thatched-roof replica of a rural village in Ireland’s most north westerly county offers a glimpse into daily life as it was during past centuries. Each cottage is an exact replica of a dwelling used by the local people in each of the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries and is equipped with the furniture, artifacts and utensils of its particular period. Visitors may wander at leisure through the Village, or join one of the guided tours.
More details here: https://www.glenfolkvillage.com/
(NOTE: There is also a small beach nearby, beyond the car park)
5.Malin Beg Pier:
From the old watchtower situated on the headland close to Malin Beg, you have a spectacular view over Malin Bay and the island Rathlin O’Birne. The watchtower can be reached by foot from Malin Beg Pier.
6.Silver Strand Beach :
Located at the tip of the Slieve League Peninsula, just past Glencolmcille, it’s one of the best beaches in the county.
As you arrive at the car park (using google maps), you will not see the beach immediately. It is hidden between the rocks, but that makes it more special. The beach is accessible via a staircase with about 170 steps. The beach is relatively small, but the formations of nature here is simply beyond words.
Silver Strand is a popular spot for a swimmers, when conditions are safe. However, please note that there are no lifeguards on duty here, so you should only enter the water if you’re a capable swimmer.
7.Sliabh Liag Cliff Experience & Visitor Centre (& Bus to Sliabh Liag Cliffs):
As of my understanding, Sliabh Liag Cliffs is the second largest cliffs in Ireland (after Croaghaun Cliffs on Achill Island in County Mayo). The famous Cliffs of Moher is around 214 meters and Sliabh Liag Cliffs is around 600 meters.
The Sliabh Liag Visitor Centre officially opened in May 2019. The Centre is part of the overall development of Sliabh Liag Mountain and the Sliabh Liag Cliff Experience. There is a visitor information service, Public Toilets, a small café and a large parking facility here.
There is also a relatively new building next to the visitor centre. It is a cafe and shop with some nice items.
There are 2 options to reach Sliabh Liag cliffs:
- Park your car near the visitor centre (lower car park) , take a shuttle bus (to and fro journey is 6 euros / person). Only the approved coaches can go upto the cliff. We went with this option as it was risk free. Bus operates every 30 minutes in a normal scenario and every 10 minutes during the busy hours. The shuttle buses are well maintained.
- You can drive your car to some distance further ahead from the visitor centre. There is another parking (upper car park) facility available. You can park the car in that parking area and walk upto the hill. Please note that you would still need to walk for around 30-45 minutes to reach the top of the cliffs from that parking area.
A visit to the cliffs and the surrounding region is a must on your Wild Atlantic Way adventure. There are also few small mobile coffee and Souvenir shops at the top of the cliffs. The views that your can experience on a clear day is simply beyond words.
More details here: https://www.sliabhliag.com/visitor-centre/
8.Killybegs:
Killybegs is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. It is the largest fishing port in the country and on the island of Ireland. It is located on the south coast of the county, north of Donegal Bay, near Donegal Town.
It was a great experience walking around the town and the fishing port. With its shimmering waters and glorious coastline, this area is famous for its maritime culture.
We also tried food at the ‘Sea food Shack’ (a famous fish and chips shop in this region). The ambience was great. We tried Battered Haddock. It was tasty and quantity was also good.
9.Donegal Town Centre:
Since we had gone all the way till Donegal, we thought to just drive through the Donegal Town centre before proceeding back to our home in Saggart. The town is finely situated at the head of busy Donegal Bay, along the River Eske.
10.Bundoran Beach and the Fairy Bridges / Wishing Chair:
On our way back from County Donegal to Dublin, we spend some time at Bundoran Beach and the Fairy Bridges. This was the last destination in our itinerary.
Bundoran Beach is located in County Donegal, just 250 metres off Bundoran town’s Main Street. Bundoran boasts not one but two great beaches – Main Beach and Tullan Strand. I was surprised to see the number of fixed caravans in the neighbour caravan park. This area of the coast is popular with experienced surfers. There is also a lot of parking space available here.
The Fairy Bridges and Wishing Chair are two enchanting features situated beside the sea at Bundoran, County Donegal. Due to the peculiar rock formations in the area, a series of natural “blow” or “puffing” holes exist (and still do to this day) which causes the seawater, when tidal conditions dictate, to crash through and blow water upwards.
The Wishing Chair is also very popular with visitors, who take advantage of the magical powers of the natural stone chair.
Now its time to return back home. On your way back aswell, you will pass through some of the roads in the Northern Ireland. As the region is under UK, the speed limits will be marked in Miles. We reached back our final destination ‘Saggart’ by around 7PM.
Please note that I have only tried to cover some important and most visited places in Donegal. There are still maaaannyyyy moooorrrrre places that you can explore in Donegal. If you have more time and budget, I would definitely recommend 3-4 days to cover Donegal.
Also the itinerary presented here is a tight one with very less time for relaxation. If you want to see get a high level idea about county Donegal and if you are OK to drive around 800+ kms in different terrains within 2 days, this would be a great itinerary for you.
Some other places of interest (not in any specific order):
- Aphort Beach
- Ardara Beach
- Ards Forest Park
- Arranmore Island
- Assaranca waterfall outside Ardara
- Ballymastocker Bay // Ballymastocker Beach Viewpoint
- Bristí Sea Arch of Crohy Head
- Buncrana
- Carrigan Head Signal Tower
- Crohy
- Culdaff Blue Flag Beach (Located on Inishowen Peninsula)
- Derryveagh Mountains and Glenveagh National Park
- Doagh Famine Village
- Donegal Bay Waterbus
- Donegal’s ‘Hidden’ Waterfall (Secret Waterfall)
- Doon Fort
- Dunlewey Church
- Dunfanaghy Beach
- Fintra Beach
- Five Fingers Strand (near to Malin Head)
- Fort Denree (Dungranenen Fort)
- Glen of Granny
- Glen Loop Walk
- Glencolmciile
- Glenevin Waterfall
- Glenlough bay
- Glenveagh National Park and Castle
- Gola Island
- Greencastle
- Grianan of Aileach (Grianán Ailigh) (entrance to the Inishowen Peninsula)
- Horn Head
- Inishowen 100 (160km scenic drive that loops around the windswept Inishowen Peninsula)
- Killahoey Beach
- Killybegs
- Kinnagoe Bay
- Knockamany Bens
- Lough Salt
- Magherclogher Beach (Eddie’s Boat)
- Maghera and Maghera Strand and Caves
- Malin Head (Wild Atlantic Way)
- Mamore Gap
- Marble Hill
- Muckross Head, Kilcar
- Narin Beach / Portnoo Beach
- LetterKenny
- Lough Derg (seperate small island)
- Oileán Ruaidh (Island Roy)
- Pool of Light (boating in caves)
- Rosguill Peninsula
- Rossnowlagh Blue Flag Beach
- Sliabh Liag (Boat Ride)
- Stroove beach and Lighthouse
- Sunset at Malin Head
- The Rosses
- Tory island (cannot go in Car) (Take Ferry from Magheraroarty)
Points to Note:
- The best time to visit Donegal, and Ireland in general is between the months of May, June, July, August and September. As you would have heard or read, Irish rains are hard to predict. So it will all depend on your luck.
- Donegal claimed the top spot on National Geographic Traveller’s “Cool List” of recommendations for people who love to travel (back in 2017).
- The best way to get around Donegal in my opinion in via your own transport (own or rented cars, for example). If you don’t have access to your own form of transport, then you can use tours to get across to the best tourist attractions Donegal has to offer.
- Lonely Planet have named Donegal in their Best in Travel Awards 2024.
- Donegal is in Republic of Ireland and not in Northern Ireland. Donegal is blessed with everything the traveller could wish for. Look forward to gorgeous scenery, delicious fresh food, a rich history and authentic Irish cultural experiences.
Summary:
County Donegal is one of the most rural places in all of Ireland with very remote locations. This would be a great option if you are looking for a truly unspoiled natural beauty.
I have got a chance to do a lot of road trips here in Ireland. I can undoubtfully say that this was the best one I ever did. Try this itinerary and let me know your thoughts in the comments section.
